Application of Paint
Please read post #14 in the linked thread @ (THEAKFORUM.NET - Click this link). You don't have to be a member to view the link. Scroll down until you see - Russian Paint Guide 101 -
Please read this specific post thoroughly for the best results. I go into weather/humidity, what equipment to use, surface prep, and the smallest details to make this the easiest part of building.
- Please read the section on Humidity/Weather in my linked instructions. Under 60% humidity is usually a good rule of thumb.
- Denatured Alcohol is the only thinner to use
- Mix the paint 60% paint and 40% thinner for most applications, for more texture and using an HVLP use 75% paint and 25% thinner
- Using the 1:1 measuring cup, add a little less thinner than paint used
- Thoroughly de-grease your project!
- Boiling the receiver first, then the barrel in TSP is one option
- Simple Green and hot water is another option
- Dish detergent works well with very hot water, blow all the water out of the gun and thoroughly dry the project in the oven at 250 degrees until it is fully evaporated. The oven also is good to evaporate any oil left in the trunnion, barrel pin, scope rail etc.
- After de-greasing I always spray the project down with lacquer thinner or acetone
- Surface blasting is a must, I suggest 120 grit aluminum oxide
- If you don't park, KG Phos is a great product, you can get by without using either if you de-grease and thoroughly sand blast the project
- Once you have blasted your gun, thoroughly blow out all the left over sand blast media
- Hang the project from the rear trunnion or the hole in the front sight block. I tend to put one ring in the front and rear so I can paint from top to bottom then bottom to top in the middle of the project
- Spray the project down with a light coat of acetone, lacquer thinner, denatured alcohol, anything to just get the surface ready to paint and remove any oil left on the surface
- Pour your paint in your paint gun using a paint filter
- Adjust your pattern to your liking, I hang my projects so I don't us much of a fan. I adjust the nozzle so that the fan pattern is side to side not up and down
- Set your gun to 25-35 PSI at the gun, less pressure will end up with bad results, and more will make the paint more flat, the write up goes into what pressure for what type of project
- You set the pressure be pressing the trigger half way down and just air is coming out of the tip
- Set the flow of the gun so that you can pull the trigger all the way down and just enough paint comes out and doesn't run. You do this with the needle, make sure you tighten the keeper after you adjust the needle/flow
- Test your pattern, flow and painting on something flat.
- Paint the receiver first, get into all the nooks and crannies. Once you are done, if you cant get all the way into the rails, and all the little spots in the receiver you can take a small brush like you would use on a model and hand paint these areas with unmixed un-thinned paint (It covers better when thicker)
- Use a bright LED light to shine on the project to ensure you are getting all the areas evenly.
- See the guide I linked for how to paint a Izhmash vs Tula gun (Flat vs Gloss)
- Afterward, let the gun air dry and bake at 200-250 for 1-2 hours
- Let it thoroughly cool to complete the curing process
- Once you are sure you won't need to touch up the rifle anymore you can move to assembly
- Assemble the rifle, apply liberal amounts of oil in the trunnions, mating areas of any metal. You just de-greased the rifle so it is important to lube the rifle up again after its done. Wipe any excess oil off after assembly.